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Hiking in Kisoji, old trade route connected Tokyo and Kyoto

Kisoji is an old trade used during the Edo Period. It is in the middle of Nakasendo, one of the Edo Five Routes that connected Tokyo and Kyoto. Among many of the Shukubamachi, or staging post stations, on the route, Kisoji is the largest, with 11 stations. Some of the stations preserve traditional buildings very well. 

A typical Kisoji scenery

The fountain used to be a water station for travelers, both human and horses. Also it was an important infrastructure to the village to extinguish fire back in the Edo period. 

I saw several fountains in Kisoji


There were also many souvenir shops, cafes, and restaurants. Most of them used to be inns for travelers during the Edo period. 

A souvenir shop in Kisoji

A soba restaurant in Kisoji

There are only few inns left in Narai Shuku. I stayed at Aburaya Ryokan. It was a traditional Japaneses building, small inn. The owner said that they can host only one group per night. 

The view from the inn of Naraishuku
I could look down the street of Narai Shuku from my room


Part of Kisoji is maintained as a hiking trail. I hiked from Narai Shuku to Yabuhara Shuku, which includes the highest point in Kisoji, Torii Pass. 

Nakasendo Toriitoge Pass Hiking Trail Map

I sometimes encountered the stone paves, probably been here for several hundred years. 

The part of the Nakasendo trail leaves stone paves
The part of the Nakasendo trail leaves stone paves


The trailhead has a bear bell. You should ring this bell to make bears aware that people are here. 

Bear bell in Nakasendo


The highest point Torii Pass. I was expecting some beautiful view, but unfortunately, there wasn't any. 

The sign of Torii Pass


I only walked for one way from Narai Shuku to Yabuhara Shuku, so took a local train from Yabuhara to Narai. 

I had to purchase paper ticket, it wasn't machine


After going back to Narai Shuku, I encountered a sake distillery called Suginomori Brewery. They offered a sake flight; I couldn't resist having one. Kisoji is known for producing delicious Japanese sake. Although Suginomori Brewery was established more than 200 years ago, the flavor of its sake was very delicate and modern. As they offered a menu in English, I assume the place is also foreigner-friendly.  

The entrance of Suginomori Brewery

Sake flight from Suginomori Brewery



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